Setting up a video projector is different from setting up a TV. Here are some tips to keep in mind for your home theater setup.

It All Starts With the Screen

Before you buy a video projector, decide whether you want to cast it onto a screen or a wall. If projecting on a screen, you should purchase your screen when you get the projector. Most units can cast from the front or rear and a table-type platform or the ceiling. For placement behind the screen, you need a rear-compatible screen.

Projector Placement

To cast from the ceiling, place the projector upside down and attach it to a ceiling mount. If you don’t install it upside down, then it will invert the image. However, ceiling mount compatible units include a feature that allows you to reverse the image to project it with the right side up.

If you mount the projector behind the screen and cast it from the rear, it will horizontally reverse the image. A unit that is rear-placement compatible includes a feature that allows you to perform a 180-degree horizontal switch so the image has the correct left and right orientation from the viewing area.

Before cutting into your ceiling and screwing a ceiling mount into position, you need to determine the required projector-to-screen distance. The required distance from the screen is the same as it would be on the floor instead of the ceiling. The best thing to do is find the best spot on a table which will provide the correct distance for the size image you desire, then use a pole to mark that same spot on the ceiling.

Another tool to help video projector placement is the distance chart included in the user manual. Many projector makers also have online distance calculators you can use. Epson and BenQ provide two examples of online distance calculators.

If you plan to install a video projector on the ceiling, it is best to consult a home theater installer. That way, you can be sure of the proper distance, angle to the screen, and ceiling mounting, as well as whether your ceiling will support the weight of both the unit and mount.

Connect Your Sources and Power Up

Most modern projectors intended for home theater use have at least one HDMI input and composite, component video, and PC monitor inputs. Make sure your unit has the ones you need before making a purchase.

Here are general instructions for connecting source devices, such as a DVD/Blu-ray Disc player, video game console, streaming media device, cable/satellite box, PC, or home theater receiver:

  • Once on, the first image you will see will be the brand logo, followed by a message the projector is searching for an active input source.
  • Turn on one of your connected sources. If the projector cannot find your active source, you can also select it manually using the remote or onboard source selection button.
  • Once the unit finds your active source, you know it is working. Now, go into the menu and select your projector’s placement (front, front ceiling, rear, or rear ceiling) to correct the image orientation.
  • Next, adjust the projected image, which will most likely be the source device’s on-screen menu. Once the unit is powered up, use any built-in test patterns available through the on-screen menu. Most often, the test patterns will feature a red, green, or blue screen or grid, such as small white squares with black borders or black squares with white edges.

Getting the Picture on to the Screen

Now you need to place the image on the screen at the proper angle. If the projector is on a table, raise or lower the unit’s front using the adjustable foot (or feet) located on the bottom front. There may also be adjustable feet situated towards the rear.

Once on, the first image you will see will be the brand logo, followed by a message the projector is searching for an active input source.

Turn on one of your connected sources. If the projector cannot find your active source, you can also select it manually using the remote or onboard source selection button.

Once the unit finds your active source, you know it is working. Now, go into the menu and select your projector’s placement (front, front ceiling, rear, or rear ceiling) to correct the image orientation.

Next, adjust the projected image, which will most likely be the source device’s on-screen menu. Once the unit is powered up, use any built-in test patterns available through the on-screen menu. Most often, the test patterns will feature a red, green, or blue screen or grid, such as small white squares with black borders or black squares with white edges.

If the unit is ceiling mounted, you will have to get on a ladder and adjust the ceiling-mount to angle it correctly with the screen. In addition to the position and angle, most video projectors also provide additional setup tools, such as keystone correction and lens shift.

  • Keystone correction provides a way to make sure the image’s sides are as close to a perfect rectangle as possible. Sometimes the projector-to-screen angle results in an image that is wider at the top than it is on the bottom or taller on one side than the other. With keystone correction, you can fix the image proportions. Some units provide for both horizontal and vertical correction, while some only allow vertical correction. In either case, the results are not always perfect. If the projector is table-mounted, place it on a higher platform to be more in line with the screen.Lens shift provides the ability to move the projector lens along horizontal and vertical planes. Some high-end units offer diagonal lens shift. If your image has the correct vertical and horizontal shape but needs to be raised, lowered, or shifted from side-to-side so it fits on your screen, lens shift limits the need to move the entire projector.

Zoom and Focus

Once you have the correct image shape and angle, the next thing to do is use the Zoom and Focus controls to get a clear picture.

Keystone correction is found on almost all projectors, while lens shift is usually reserved for higher-end units.

Use the zoom control to get the image to fill your screen. Once the image is the right size, use the focus control to make it clear to your eye from your seating position. On most projectors, the zoom and focus controls are manual, but in some cases, they are motorized, which allows you to make zoom and focus adjustments using the remote control.

The zoom and focus controls are usually on the top of the unit, just behind the lens assembly, but sometimes they may be located surrounding the lens exterior. Some cheaper projectors may not have a zoom or focus control.

Optimize Your Picture Quality

Now you can make further adjustments to optimize your viewing experience. The first thing to do is to set the default aspect ratio. You may have several choices, such as 16:9, 16:10, 4:3, and Letterbox. If you are using the projector as a PC monitor, 16:10 is best. For home theater, if you have a 16:9 aspect ratio screen, set the aspect ratio to 16:9, as it is the best compromise for most content. You can always change this setting if objects in your image look too wide or narrow.

Next up are the picture settings. Most units provide a series of presets, including Vivid (or Dynamic), Standard (or Normal), Cinema, and possibly others, such as Sports or Computer, and presets for 3D if the projector provides that viewing option.

  • For display of computer graphics or content, use a computer or PC picture setting if it is available.Standard or Normal is the best compromise for both TV programs and movie viewing for home theater use.The Vivid preset exaggerates color saturation and contrast, perhaps somewhat harshly.Cinema is often dim and warm, especially for rooms with ambient light. This setting is best for viewing movie content in a very dark room.

Like TVs, video projectors provide manual setting options for color, brightness, tint (hue), and sharpness. Some units also have additional settings, such as video noise reduction (DNR), Gamma, Motion Interpolation, and Dynamic Iris or Auto Iris.

3D Settings

Unlike most TVs these days, many video projectors still provide both 2D and 3D viewing options.

If you still aren’t satisfied after going through the available picture setting options, contact an installer or dealer that provides video calibration services.

  • Both LCD and DLP video projectors require Active Shutter glasses. Some systems provide one or two pairs of glasses, but many do not. Use the glasses recommended by the manufacturer for the best results. The price range may vary from $50 to $100 per pair.The glasses include either an internal rechargeable battery via a USB charging cable or a watch battery. Using either option, you should have about 40 hours of use time per charge.In most cases, the projector will automatically detect 3D content, and it will set itself to a 3D brightness mode to compensate for the loss of brightness caused by the glasses. However, just as with other settings, you can make further picture adjustments as desired.

Don’t Forget the Sound

Unlike TVs, most video projectors do not have built-in speakers. Speakers built into the projectors provide weak sound reproduction like that of a tabletop radio or cheap laptop. This sound quality might be suitable for a small bedroom or conference room but not ideal for a real home theater audio experience.

The best audio complement to a video projection is a surround sound system that includes a home theater receiver and multiple speakers. In this type of setup, the best connection option would be to connect the video/audio outputs (HDMI preferable) of your source component(s) to your home theater receiver and then connect the video output (once again, HDMI) to your video projector.

However, if you don’t want all the hassle of a traditional home theater audio setup, you can opt to place a soundbar above or below your screen. A soundbar will provide far better audio than the speakers built into a video projector.

Another solution, especially if you have a modestly sized room, is to pair a video projector with an under-TV audio system (usually referred to as a sound base). This solution is an alternative way to get better sound than built-in speakers. It also keeps connection clutter to a minimum, as you don’t have run cables to a soundbar placed above or below the screen.

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